Page 62 - Exploring Taste Magazine N.2

EXPLORING TASTE—SANTA MARGHERITA GRUPPO VINICOLO

Photo Jorge Uzon/AFP/Getty Images

to stop. In the last twenty years, Mexican culture has deeply changed together a touch of attention is added, as if you were invited over for dinner. All around this,
with its gastronomic habits, thus looking outside (afuera) at both the surrounding bakeries, confectioner’s shops with assorted delights, markets and stalls – selling
countries and the more distant ones. To begin with, Mexican culture has looked typical, ever more gourmand products – are thriving and expanding. Like a paint-
at the United States, its closest neighbor but also the country with which it has the ing by Frida Kahlo, richness coincides with abundance, with the sum of distinct
most dif cult relationship (from a political and cultural point of view). Today, Los colors, with accumulation as a value that does not weaken but enriches customer
Angeles’s largest community is of Mexican origin, which means such an inexora- experience. Besides culinary experiments, the wine industry is ever more ref ned
ble migration could not but inf uence Mexico itself. On the one hand, Hollywood and suitable for the most discerning palates. The f rst grapes planted in Northern
turns the spotlights on directors who were born and grew up here (Alejandro California come from Mexican vineyards. Here there is no Napa Valley but the
González Iñárritu, Alfonso Cuarón and Guillermo del Toro are the three gold Valle de Guadalupe, and the soil is nearly identical with that extending further
medalists and cinema’s true visionaries). On the other hand, U.S. culture in Mex- to the South of California. Mexican wine production has Spanish roots, so wine
ico City – in its broadest sense – has become a reference point for the establish- producers are focused on sweet and fruity scents. Just enjoy a glass of Cabernet as
ment of new venues, in line with Californian trends. According to the people in accompaniment to a modern reinterpretation of classic burrito and you will feel all
Mexico City, “when we talked about quality cuisine, we only referred to the French the warmth of Mexican comfort food. Then you will be ready to immerse yourself
one, which was imitated by the most renowned chefs.” Today the situation has into Mexico City’s tequila nights – chaotic, hectic, unrelenting and colorful.
def nitely changed. Everything is hectic, but the roots of the past are brought back
to the surface. In order to implement a dialog with the younger generations, Mex-
ican chefs decided to bring back traditional recipes going beyond simple tacos and
similar fast foods. Today, eating “local” food implies preparing for an enriching
experience, in which the features of Western dining combine with the f avors –
and colors – that can only be found here so easily. Street food receives a new iden-
tity when it is served at newly opened bistros, where informality is maintained but

Today’s Mexican cuisine is a mix of Pre-Columbian traditions
and colonial Spanish cuisine. It varies from region to region,
but it is mainly based on corn and chili peppers. Fresh-fish dishes
are normally prepared in the style of Veracruz

60