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exploring taste—santa margherita gruppo vinicolo places—stories from the lagoon

City Guide 3. FORTUNY MUSEUM photography Didier Descouens

Venice Palazzo Fortuny, Campo S. Beneto 3780, Venice

Palazzo Fortuny is located in the San Marco dis-
trict and owes its name to its last Spanish owner,
(naturalized) artist Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo.
Considered one of the finest examples of Gothic
Venetian architecture, it had three monumental
facades that face Campo San Beneto, Calle Pesaro
and Rio Ca’ Michiel. Today it is home to the For-
tuny Museum, which hosts high-profile exhibi- 5. GIUDECCA ISLANDS
tions and events. Venetian Lagoon
1. SQUERO SAN TROVASO • www.fortuny.visitmuve.it
1. 2. Fondamenta Bonlini 1097, Venice Giudecca (Giudèca in Venetian and, in antique
times, Zudèca or Zuèca) is a set of eight connect-
Squero di San Trovaso is one of the oldest and ed islands located south of Venice’s historical
most famous Venetian dry docks, where small center. It overlooks the canal of the same name,
boats such as gondolas, pupparoni, sandali, sciopo- opposite the Dorsoduro district, which the island
ni and other traditional vessels typical of the city’s belongs to from an administrative standpoint. Its
canals were built and repaired. It is located on the name is clearly Hebrew: an ancient refuge of the
San Trovaso canal and is one of the only dry docks Venetian nobility, the island is still a residential
still active in whole of Venice, from Monday to Fri- 4. CANOVA’S TOMB area removed from the tourist tracks and home
day you can visit the yards and see them in action. Basilica dei Frari, San Polo 3072, Venice to a vibrant cultural and social life. Do not miss
Booking required. Chiesa delle Zitelle, started by Jacopo Bozzetto in
• www.squerosantrovaso.com Inside the Basilica dei Frari, in Venice, visitors 1582 based on the design by Palladio.
will find a seemingly mysterious pyramid-shaped
structure, rather unusual in a Christian church.
The tomb was built in memory of famous paint-
er and sculptor Antonio Canova (1757-1822) by
his students, according to a plan designed by the
master for a monument to Titian that he never re-
is now at the heart of renewed interest, with the recent confirmation that the rooms of Hotel Gritti and Harry’s Bar in Venice, with the ubiquitous lagoon alized. The unique triangular shape of the tomb photography Alessandro Moggi
first film version will be directed by Martin Campbell, starring Pierce Bros- serving as the natural background for the course of events, the novel unfolds and many of the decorative elements seem to re-
nan as Cantwell. Born in New Zealand in 1943, Campbell has an extensive along the Tagliamento river and follows the relationship of troubled Cant- call the symbols used by the freemasons, a group
filmography behind him and is known for directing films such as The Mask well, who is suffering from a heart condition, with Renata, a young Venetian which Canova was apparently part of.
of Zorro (1998) and for having successfully launched the James Bond series noblewoman of just nineteen, the perfect counterbalance for his frustration • www.basilicadeifrari.it
also starring Pierce Bosman – with the actor’s debut in the role in Golden Eye with the world. Many have written that the story often seems an intense and
(1995) – as well as the Daniel Craig version, which marked a clear evolution wrathful soliloquy, almost like a treatise or testament of the author/protag-
in the representation of the famous character created by Ian Fleming. In fact, onist when it touches topics such as love, war, memories and the future. It is
in Campbell’s hands, and following the line of the screenplay written by Neal also, at the same time, a work of self-criticism and self-defence, in which death
Purvis, Robert Wade and Oscar winner Paul Higgins, James Bond turned is perceived in a suddenly real and imminent manner, each line pervaded by 6. LUCA MASSIMO BARBERO
into a more contemporary and mature version of himself, revealing a certain- the “maturity of despair” we read of in the introduction. The lagoon used for Director of the Istituto di Storia dell'Arte
ly darker (and more muscular) man than his illustrious predecessors, whose duck hunting and vine growing, sometimes rippled and sometimes calm, 2. SEGNI NEL TEMPO BOOKSHOP —Fondazione Giorgio Cini
iconic status was not at all undermined, but rather skilfully “rewritten” for the crossed by speeding gondolas operated by more or less experienced and/or Calle Lunga de San Barnaba 2856, Venice
present. The 2006 film Casino Royale is already a classic since it represents a affable boatmen, popular with the elegant ladies and their well-mannered Born in 1963 in Turin, and later moved to Venice,
crucial watershed in a big screen narration of the world’s most famous secret butlers, becomes the ideal background, so misty and rare, for a story in which Since 1999, antiquarian bookstore Segni del tempo Luca Massimo Barbero is a scholar and critic of
agent. Instead, Beyond the River and Into the Trees, tells the story of a colonel space and time overlap and become confused in long flashbacks in which the has been the place to go for old and rare books, of- modern and contemporary art, director of the Art
in his fifties, stationed in Trieste since 1945 – an area occupied by American protagonist attempts to lay himself bare. The shooting of the film directed by ten out of print and hard to find. In January 2012, a History Institute of the Giorgio Cini Foundation
and British troops from 1945 to 1954 – a highly decorated war hero who now Campbell will start in the early months of 2017, while initial location scouting store also opened in Venice, on Calle de San Barn- and curator of the Peggy Guggenheim Collection
only feels the weight of his uniform, oppressed by a persistent sense of doom has already taken place: all we have to do is wait to see Hemingway’s lagoon aba in the Dorsoduro district, where, in addition to in Venice. He has worked on projects and exhibi-
due to his experience in the war as well as his poor health. Set in the elegant at the movies. books you can find vintage prints, Venetian land- tions dedicated to some of the greatest contempo-
scapes and other interesting buys – the ideal spot rary artists, including Jean Michel Basquiat, Nan
1. – 2. to find a souvenir from Venice that does justice to Goldin, Keith Haring, Yayoi Kusama and Luigi
In 1985, in Milan, the Institute of Paolo Monti Photography was
established. In 2004, the Paolo Monti Archive has been recognized the unique nature of the canal city. Ontani, and he has been a consultant for interna-
of historical interest by the Italian Ministry of Heritage and Culture • www.segnineltempo.it tional artistic events.

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