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exploring taste—santa margherita gruppo vinicolo places—lens on aarhus

Aarhus at the table

built in the eighteenth century. Cobbled and quiet, this small to “vandalism”, though there’s nothing antisocial about what Denmark’s second city is quickly becoming one of the hottest dining
street exudes charm. Around the corner, on Åboulevarden, is head chef Rune Lund Sørensen sends from the kitchen. Since destinations in Europe. This is largely thanks to its growing galaxy of
F-Høj – a spin-off of the Michelin-starred restaurant Frederik- Hærværk opened in 2014, he boasts to have served over a thou- Michelin stars. Three of its restaurants were awarded a coveted star in 2015
shøj. It serves a gourmet version of Denmark’s famous open- sand different dishes – mostly using ingredients sourced from and again in 2016 – Gastromé, Restaurant Frederikshøj, and Substans. But
face sandwich – smørrebrød. no further than 40 miles away. Thanks to its reasonable prices it isn't all fine dining in Aarhus. The summer of 2016 saw the opening of an
To the west of the city lies Vesterbro. Though mainly residen- and relaxed vibe, Hærværk won a Bib Gourmand this year. undercover street food market in the city center, followed by a new food hall
tial, the neighborhood is home to one of the city’s most unusu- It lies round the corner from Jægergårdgade, a vibrant street handily located on the so-called walking street, both offering tasty grub at NORDISK SPISEHUS
al attractions. Den Gamle By – the Old City – is an open-air you could spend a whole morning exploring. You will find affordable prices. Aarhus also boasts dozens of unsung local restaurants. MP Bruuns Gade 31, Aarhus
museum dedicated to three eras of Danish history: the 1860s lots of independent shops here, like Nr.4, which sells a mix of Today, whether the hungry diner desires minimalist New Nordic or hearty
of Hans Christian Andersen, the industrializing 1920s, and Danish and Icelandic designs – look out for ceramicist Trine Danish, modern Asian or traditional European cuisine, there is something Michelin-star food with a Nordic twist – this is the kind of inventive cooking
the tie-dyed 1970s. It is worth a visit to see its 75 half-timbered Bech Jakobsen’s quirky egg cups. If you are thirsty, grab a beer for everyone in the City of Smiles. And, with the wider area designated a you will find at this spot south of the city center. The kitchen uses local
houses which were brought there from all corners of Denmark at Mikkeller, the microbrewery founded in Copenhagen, or European Region of Gastronomy in 2017, there will be more focus than ever ingredients to put its own spin on dishes from award-winning restaurants
and reconstructed as a provincial market town. head to St. Pauls Apotek, a former pharmacy where mood before on the city’s food scene in the months ahead, thrusting new success from around the world, often from one single country.
Better still are the four climate-controlled greenhouses at the lighting and champagne cocktails are the order of the day. stories into the limelight. • t +45 86 17 70 99 www.nordiskspisehus.dk
Botanical Gardens, which lie at the top of a nearby hill. Wander Just south of Jægergårdgade is Ingerslevs Boulevard – home
from the olive trees of the Mediterranean greenhouse into the to Denmark’s biggest food market. It boasts some 60 stalls,
cacti and dates of the desert, and from the Spanish moss of the including greengrocers, cheesemongers, organic butchers and
mountain greenhouse into the butterflies and banana trees of fishmongers, and you can also pick up fresh flowers and hon-
the tropics. The greenhouses were designed by architects CF ey from local beekeepers. Time your visit right, though, as the
Møller and won an International Architecture Award in 2016. market is open only on Wednesdays and Saturdays until 2pm.
Head down the hill and sweep down onto Thorvaldsensgade Head north from Jægergårdgade along Frederiks Allé and you
but instead of continuing straight ahead, zigzag south till you will catch sight again of Your Rainbow Panorama – Olafur
reach Godsbanen – a highlight of any visit to Aarhus. It is a col- Eliasson’s striking walkway above ARoS, the city’s contempo-
lection of renovated industrial buildings on the grounds of a rary art museum. Don’t head there yet, though. Pause first to
former freight yard, which was built in 1923 but closed in 2000. explore the distinctive grey building on your right. It is Aarhus S’VINBAR KÖD AARHUS
A decade later, the repurposed main building opened, followed town hall, designed by the godfather of Danish modernism, Klostergade 62, Aarhus Skolegade 21, Aarhus
by the annexes. Today they house a range of creative businesses Arne Jacobsen and it turns 75 in 2017. Clad in Norwegian mar-
such as designers and theatre companies, and around 200 peo- ble, it is one of the city’s most famous landmarks and a striking With over 300 wines – mostly served by the glass – this is a wine bar for all, Head to this charming spot in the city center for steaks produced from
ple work in Godsbanen every day. It is fun to wander around visual counterpoint to the cubist design of ARoS, a couple of a home for those who want to “geek out” about wine, as well as those who premium cuts in Australia, Denmark, Uruguay, and the United States. They
this hub of creativity and see what’s happening. Make sure you hundred meters to your right. just want to relax. There’s a daily tasting session which varies according to come with a wide range of sauces and side dishes. The wine list – a mix of the
head outside to see the eclectic range of materials used to make Take your time to enjoy ARoS’s permanent collection, which terroir, grape or country, and a monthly tasting session with snacks. Old and the New World – is equally tempting.
other workshops and creative spaces, including recycled ship- includes works by Frank Viola and Andy Warhol. Among the • t +45 72 20 66 20 www.svinbar.dk • t +45 38 41 60 50 www.koedaarhus.dk
ping containers and yurts. major attractions is Boy – Australian artist Ron Mueck’s five-
There’s arresting architecture around the corner, too, at Son- metre-tall sculpture of a crouching boy, whose down-dappled
nesgade 11. This eye-catching and asymmetrical mixed-use skin looks unnervingly real. ARoS also has an eclectic calen-
building was designed by award-winning local architects dar of temporary exhibitions, with recent artists including
SLETH. Its concrete facade has cracks that make it resemble Grayson Perry and Robert Mapplethorpe. As well as a food
marble, and it houses three floors of offices plus a restaurant hall and eclectic gift shop, there’s a spectacular spiral stair-
on the ground floor. It is worth booking ahead to enjoy the case, which provides access to all the galleries on the muse-
seasonal gourmet food that is shuttled from the open kitchen um’s 10 levels.
(Think: roasted wood pigeon, turbot soup and Danish oysters.) The indisputable highlight is Your Rainbow Panorama. Few
The head chef is Jesper Thomsen, who trained at Restaurant views of the city are more enchanting than the one offered
Frederikshøj. The wine comes from a branch of cool Copenha- by Eliasson’s rooftop walkway – 360 degrees of glass in every HOTEL FERDINAND RESTAURANT FF
gen vintner Rosforth and Rosforth – located in the basement. shade of the rainbow. More than anything, though, it offers the Åboulevarden 28, Aarhus Åboulevarden 30, Aarhus
You can find other splendid restaurants a stone’s throw away, footsore visitor a chance to retrace their journey through the
in the residential neighborhood of Frederiksbjerg. One of them city, to piece together its constituent parts from high above, and With a great location overlooking the canal, just a stone’s throw away from Located in a courtyard not far from the canal, this stylish spot offers “casual
is Restaurant Hærværk, whose menu changes daily, depending – in the warm glow of a modern Danish rainbow – to under- the main shopping streets in the center of town, this boutique hotel boasts eating and social drinking”. That means a mouthwatering range of sharing
on the season and the whims of its suppliers. Its name translates stand for themselves why they call it the City of Smiles. a restaurant offering a number of delicious sharing plates and a four-course plates – charcuterie, or beef tartar – plus an eclectic cocktail list and a broad
menu that’s very good value at only 445 DKK. range of mainly European wines.
• t +45 87 32 14 44 www.hotelferdinand.dk • t +45 87 32 14 44 www.ff-aarhus.dk

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