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exploring taste – Spring/Summer 2016 people – The wine writer

Louis Oudart, a friend of the French-born Juliette Colbert de sense of place, and many of the younger wine drinkers – think
Maulévrier – known in Italy as Giulia Falletti, the Marchesa the Millennials – are looking for unique wines that are very
di Barolo – swooped in from France and taught the Langhe different than their parents’ Chardonnays and Merlots. It’s a
producers how to make wine. I never bought it. great opportunity for Italy’s wines made with native grapes,
A few producers I interviewed mentioned the name of an wines that can’t be recreated around the globe.
Italian general, Paolo Francesco Staglieno, as being a pioneer
in early Barolo production. I hunted down his most famous It is often remarked, however, that when it comes to wine exports,
work, a manual on wine making that was strikingly advanced Italian producers struggle to put forward a cohesive strategy. To
for the times. It clearly showed that Staglieno was obsessed what extent are buyers influenced by communication strategies?
with vinifying Barolo perfectly dry. This led me to writings by
a Piedmont historian, Giusi Mainardi, whose research clearly That's true, it's rare to find a unified effort when it comes to
points to Staglieno as vinifying Nebbiolo dry before Oudart marketing Italian wines. I do think buyers are influenced by
set foot in Piedmont. I also pored over historical documents, marketing strategies, but besides promotions and marketing,
including Le lettere del fattore di Cavour and it all pointed stories behind the wine are extremely important. However, wine
to Staglieno as being the father of Modern Day Barolo. drinkers who read about wine are looking for honesty from the
I then discovered a little-known but informative book, writer, and are wary about conflicts of interest. They also want
Louis Oudart e I vini nobili del Piemonte, by Anna Riccardi wine represented in an entertaining but informative style, and
Candiani, published by Slow Food Editore in 2011, which detest snobbery. Readers also appreciate articles written by
shows no connection between Oudart and the Marchesa di specialists: I think the days of a single wine writer writing about
Barolo or the advent of dry Barolo. This helped me confirm all the wines in the world – and claiming to be a specialist in
my conclusions that General Paolo Francesco Staglieno is the everything from Bordeaux to Chile, from Argentina to Italy,
real father of Barolo as we know it today. and all the wines in between – are largely over.

What are you working on right now? Is there a new book in Lets talk a little about Santa Margherita. Which do you think are
the pipeline? the company’s strengths?

Between 2004 and 2014 I wrote four books (including the Santa Margherita is synonymous with Pinot Grigio. Not only
English version of Franco Biondi Santi – The Gentleman of did Santa Margherita put Pinot Grigio on the map when they
Brunello) so at the moment, I’m focusing on my work as Italian launched in the US in 1979 – paving the way for what would
Editor at Wine Enthusiast, one of the most gratifying positions become an international phenomenon – but they focused on
I’ve ever held, and a full-time job to say the least. the Made-in-Italy quality connotation, and turned Italian wine
into a luxury product.
Your work gives you a unique understanding of current trends in
Italian wine appreciation. What are these, in your opinion? In recent years, “ foodie” and wine culture have gone truly
mainstream. How do you view this phenomenon?
Organic and natural farming methods of viticulture are now
huge in Italy, and for good reason. Not only did the harsh After years of drinking wine like a cocktail – before or after the
chemicals used between the 1950s and 1980s sterilize the soil, meal but not at the table – Americans are now pairing wine and
but these days consumers are very aware, and very wary, of food. The popularity of Italian restaurants and Italian cuisine
harsh chemicals. More and more wine drinkers are looking has had a huge role in this. And of all the world’s wines, Italian
for wines that are made without industrial chemicals. More wines are absolutely the best to pair with food thanks to their
wine lovers are also looking for wines with elegance and naturally fresh acidity and flexibility.
balance as opposed to muscle and concentration.
Finally, what are your personal tastes? What is your favorite food
And what about the American market? What are buyers looking & wine pairing?
for these days?
Pizzoccheri and Valtellina Sassella, Sauvignon Bianco and
American wine drinkers are looking for wines that offer a pesto, and Dosaggio Zero Metodo Classico with pizza.

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