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exploring taste – Spring/Summer 2016 sm people – Subtitle Here

LUIS VON DELLEMANN

Margherita. He spoke to the president, Count Umberto uis Von Dellemann doesn’t need an introduction. He
Marzotto, and called me back after a couple of hours, ask- is one of the great masters of modern oenology in Al-
ing me to find an engineer who could carry out the relevant L to-Adige, having consolidated his legendary reputa-
financial assessments and come up with a quote. Within a tion over the past fifty years.
month, I was able to get the governor of the province on our “I always say that wine making is in my DNA,” says Von Delle-
side and we wrapped up the deal.” This was the beginning mann, who recently turned eighty. “I was pretty much born in
of a new adventure for Santa Margherita. a vineyard. In 1985, my grandfather founded Andriano, one of
Bruno Pojer fondly remembers all the wines from Alto the first wine making cooperatives of Alto-Adige. He worked
Adige that the Venetian company helped bring to interna- there as a oenologist – and so did I.”
tional fame: “After Pinot Grigio it was Muller Thurgau's Von Dellemann took the first few steps towards becoming
turn, then Chardonnay. Without forgetting all the work an winemaker when he enrolled in the prestigious oenology
done on the production of champagne – at first using the school of San Michele all'Adige in 1951. After he graduated,
Charmat Method and later the Classic. Today Alto Adige is Luis moved to Switxerland for work. He came back when he
famous for its white wines, but 30 years ago few would have was 23 and was precociously offered a job as an oenologist at
forseen this success. The Marzotto family was among the Cantina di Adriano.
very first to take its chances in this segment of the market.” Luis Von Dellemann played a crucial role in the production of
We ended our conversation with a return to the present. the first Pinot Grigio vinified in white by Santa Margherita.
When asked about the relationship between the Santa Mar- “I still remember the day we met at Cantina di Andriano, to
gherita Group and the Pojer family, that to this day supplies taste the wine with the Technical Director and Bruno Pojer.
its Maso Reiner grapes to Kettmeir, Bruno Pojer replies: We had five or six barrels.” Back then, the Pinot Grigio variety
“The secret of such a long and fruitful relationship lies in was used exclusively as a secondary grape. It took Santa Mar-
our mutual relationship built on honesty and trust. So long gherita’s forward-thinking approach to see beyond its initial
as we have these, we will work together happily through purpose. “The harvest of 1960 was excellent, making for a
many more generations.” full-bodied wine, a little darker than usual, but very charac-

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