Page 104 - SM_ITA_02

exploring taste – Spring/Summer 2016 wine culture – Uniqueness in Chianti Classico

he Chianti region has always been is even today. The Lamole di Lamole winery stretch-
defined as follows: “From Spedaluzzo es over 173 hectares, 57 of which are vineyards
T to Greve, enclosing Panzano and all of and 4 are olive groves. The singularity in Chianti
the Podesteria di Radda, which is made of three Classico can be discerned through observation:
thirds, Radda, Gajole and Castellina, coming right “These are not ‘pretty’ vines,” jokes Andrea Dal-
up against the boarder with Siena.” Thus wrote the din, who has worked as an oenologist with Lam-
Archduke Cosimo III de’ Medici in 1716 in his Di- ole di Lamole for twenty years. It is true, they are
chiarazione dei confini delle quattro regioni, estab- not ‘pretty’: the plants cling to the hillside push-
lishing the first official definition of the Chianti ing their way through the rocky terrain, reaching
district: as a region, but also as an area destined to for the sun. Lamole di Lamole’s Chianti Classico
become Tuscany’s most celebrated wine producer. is the product of this combination: “the altitude,
On the road connecting Greve and Panzano we between 400 and 650 meters, is the first specific
find Lamole, one of Chianti’s beating hearts. Lam- element that defines our territory,” Daldin ex-
ole is Chianti Classico at its best, so much that it is plains. “Then comes the climate: the average tem-
known as Lamole di Lamole. The wine gives this peratures here never exceed 33°C. From May to
land its identity, and it is considered the gem in the the second half of September we have thermal
crown of Santa Margherita's Tuscan wine estates. inversion; between September and vintage time
The village of Lamole features a central church we have diurnal temperature variations (this is
and square overlooking the vineyards that stretch the most delicate phase as it coincides with the
over the surrounding sloping hills. Today, it is plants’ veraison stage, during which the aromas
home to 86 inhabitants, both natives and interna- fully develop). Lastly, there is the terrain, which is
tional artists that came here seeking the legend- unique: the foundation is made up of sandstone,
ary charms of Chiantishire. Its history, however, with splits of Galestro clay that gradually break
is as ancient as its vineyards. The first written it up until it becomes sand.” All this affects the
testimony of Chianti, the wine as well as Chian- flavor of the wine. “It is intense, deep. As it ages,
ti, the district, dates back to 1250. The gallo nero, Chianti Classico develops spicy, balsamic notes.”
or the black cockerel, that became the symbol of The rest of the story lies in its history. In the seven-
the region as illustrated by Vasari three centuries teenth century the village was home to one thou-
later in Florence's Palazzo Vecchio, also made its sand people, and wine exports began in earnest.
first appearance in 1250. Lamole is a small island A century later, in 1716, it became the first official
on the path between two rival cities, in the thir- wine region in the world. Chianti began to cross
teenth century it saw the erection of a watchtower borders, in England it boomed. Gradually the
castle built to survey the road, a testament to the wine was perfected and underwent transforma-
age-old hostility between Florence and Siena. The tions. At first, it was only 100% Sangiovese, but by
castle stands high on the ‘lamule’ that give the vil- the nineteenth century the Baron Ricasoli decreed:
lage its name, thin strips of land that are the result 80% Sangiovese and 20% a mix of other varieties.
of geological erosion. The stone that results from Sangiovese, however remains the chief and prin-
this erosion, and is typical of the region, plays a cipal ingredient, giving Chianti those properties
role in imparting a certain character to the wine, that make it unique. It is a grape that, more than

102 103