Page 85 - Exploring Taste Magazine N.2

HERITAGE—AEREOBANQUETS, POLIBIBITE & LAMBRUSCO

ever, in petrol cans. Lambrusco was the Futurists’ favorite wine be- f owers, such as damask rose and pineapple, of frozen fruit juices to
cause it was dynamic, sparkling and lively. create iridescent-looking drinks and of wine as a cocktail base were
Soon they came to an agreement with Angelo Giachino, the owner all fascinating. The f rst autarchic drinks were also created, which
of a restaurant in Turin, to create an entirely Futurist venue where used Grappa and Arzente as the alcoholic base, and rhubarb, gen-
they could experiment with their ideas in complete freedom. That tian, absinthe and Rosolio as f avorings. Traditional Italian wines,
is how the Taverna Santopalato came to be. The inauguration menu however, were used more than anything else.
was introduced by a polibibita (literally “multi-drink”, a cocktail), The cocktails were grouped into categories depending on their
which was followed by intuitive appetizers, Solar Broth, Aereofood function: Permangiare (literally “for eating”, during appetizers and
and Equator+North Pole. However, the most famous and commonly aperitifs), Perlazarsi (literally, “for getting up”, during dessert and
recurring dish at the aereobanquets was Fiat Chicken, i.e. chicken after dinner), Guerrainletto (literally “war in bed”, highly energetic
covered in silver confetti, presented atop a lake of red zabaglione. cocktails that aimed to encourage procreation), Paceinletto (literally
There were 14 courses, served in the dining area of the Taverna “peace in bed”, veritable alcoholic bombs with herbal infusions able
(luminous columns, round windows in the walls) which was over- to bring about restful sleep) and Prestoinletto (literally “to bed ear-
looked by two large square boxes covered in aluminum. Jets of eau ly”, perfect for cold winter nights). Lastly there were the Snebbianti
de cologne were sprayed into the air. (dehazers), strong revitalizers to help with strategic decisions, that
The reason behind the cocktails was to convey a myriad sensations, freed the mind from doubts and hesitations, and the Inventine (in-
which – in some ways – were similar to the simultaneous visions of ventors), fresh, intoxicating cocktails able to stimulate the mind and
Umberto Boccioni’s paintings. For example, Rosabianca (contain- foster bright ideas. As is easy to see, the nationalistic sentiment also
ing orange, an infusion of white roses, Campari and aniseed) was emerged as a language revolution with loan words being swapped
served accompanied by sprays of rose perfume aimed at the nape for Italian words: shaker became Agitatore, barman, Miscelatore, bar,
of the patron. The use of perfume was one innovation of Futurist Quisibeve, menu, Catalogo, maître, Guidapalato, brandy, Arzente and
whiskey, Spirito d’avena.
drinks: at times, it was in harmony with the f avor and ingredients
On the facing page: Marinetti at a Futurist banquet in Tunis the Giostra d’alcol came into existence, one of the f rst edible cock- and preservatives or the adoption of technological tools in the
Today many of the things proposed by the Futurists are applied
(comprofumo) or in contrast (disprofumo). The same held for the
lighting (with green lighting being the favored hue). This is also how
in everyday life, such as the incorporation of foods with additives
kitchen. The recipes which appeared to be subversive, in some
tails in history: chunks of chocolate and cheese f oated in a mixture
cases were actually just a taste of Italian-style Nouvelle Cuisine.
of Barbera d’Asti, Campari and Cedrata.
The Avanvera on the other hand was distinguished by its veritable
However, what was totally revolutionary was the idea of trans-
forming what had been considered a necessity until then – a meal
explosion of clashing f avors (Strega, Vermouth Rosso and Brandy)
– into an experience that could involve all the senses. Transform
and its a vanvera [nonsensical] decorations that gave it its name, i.e.
everything, except the wine of course – the already-perfect fuel
tomatoes, anchovies, cheese, almonds, bananas and cof ee. The use
for f ights of the mind and palate.
of alcoholic infusions based around home-grown exotic fruit and

The first autarchic drinks were also created, which used Grappa and Arzente as the alcoholic base,
and rhubarb, gentian, absinthe and Rosolio as flavorings. Traditional
Italian wines, however, were used more than anything else.

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